San Sebastian
** This is not a sponsored post and I did not receive anything in exchange for mentions in this post.
I first heard about San Sebastián years ago because this small city in the Basque Country region of Spain is known for its amazing cuisine. San Sebastián, or Donostia to locals, has more restaurant Michelin stars per capita than anywhere in Europe and I believe second most in the world. So, being a foodie, of course it went to the top of my list of places I want to visit.
Another big draw is that San Sebastián is on the coast and the beaches are beautiful. My husband is a beach bum and is happiest in and around the water, so the possibility of surf and the chance to eat amazing food for every meal were the reasons we planned a trip there to celebrate our ten year anniversary this year.
How we got there
We found a great deal on a non-stop round trip flight from Austin to London on Norwegian Airlines. From there, we booked a quick cheap flight to Bilbao, Spain. As soon as we got off the plane, we caught a bus for the one hour ride to San Sebastián. We left Austin around 5pm, and got into San Sebastián just before 5pm Spain time, so it made for a pretty long travel day and neither of us slept much on the plane. We were exhausted, but excited to be there. We only did carry-on and that made it a little easier so we didn’t have to deal with checking and waiting for bags. (**Tip and reminder: we have TSA pre-check in the US and I’m so used to not having to take out my liquids, tablet, etc., but that doesn’t apply in Europe and they are strict about the liquids all fitting in to one clear plastic bag. Save yourself some time and pack accordingly).
Where we stayed
We really wanted a hotel that was close to the water with views of the water. Since we were only going to be there a few days, we were looking for a hotel instead of a short term rental. We decided to book a room with a view at Lasala Plaza Hotel and it was perfect! The hotel is beautiful with great views of the bay. The rooms are a good size and the service was great. It’s also in a perfect location— right near the bay and close to bars and restaurants, the square and other sights on our list. It was just a short walking distance from the surf beach and the bus station. There’s a beautiful rooftop with a small pool and gorgeous views. Can’t recommend it enough.
What we ate
Pintxos!! The pinxto—a mini appetizer you can eat in a few bites that’s usually on a stick or piece of bread—was invented in San Sebastián. In the evenings, the bars and restaurants open their doors and line their bars with pintxos. We loved strolling the small streets, going from bar to bar sampling a couple at each spot. And I’d pair them with txakoli, a light white wine produced in the Basque Country. Some of our favorite pintxo bars include: Bar Txepetxa, Ganbara, Casa Vergara and Casa Alcalde.
Of course I also wanted to go to one of the Michelin starred restaurants since we were in the area. I read about several and a friend recommended Azurmendi. Unfortunately, I failed to do my research after making a reservation (which is so unlike me, but I had just left my job and moved and things were a bit chaotic leading up to the trip) and I didn’t realize that the restaurant was located an hour away in Bilbao. Soooo we had to hire a driver to take us there and back which cost almost as much as the multi-course, three Michaelin starred meal. My bad! Thought my husband might want to kill me for a minute there, but, it was an incredible, once in a lifetime dining experience.
What to see
Playa de la Concha has been called one of the best beaches in Europe. The water is a turquoise blue and calm, which makes it very family friendly. There’s a promenade along the bay and a park with a big carousel and playground. It’s a great city for kids and we can’t wait to go back with our son. The cobblestone streets of the old town (Parte Vieja) are so charming and on weekends they’re packed with people meeting to catch up over pintxos. The historic Plaza de la Constitucion is in the heart of the town and on Friday nights, crowds of people gather for music and dancing. It’s a great spot for people watching.
About a mile from where we stayed is Zurriola Beach which is a hot spot for surfers. There’s a great surf shop near the beach that rents boards and wet suits called Pukas. On one end of Zurriola, the Urumea river flows into the ocean. There’s a bridge with beautiful views of the water and the city’s Belle Epoque architecture on one side and a modern glass structure on the other. We loved making that walk each morning and stopping for café con leche and a pastry along the way.
I knew that we couldn’t leave San Sebastian without hiking Mount Urgull. I had seen pictures of the stunning view from the top and after all those pinxtos, we could definitely use a little exercise. It’s an easy hike that starts right in Old Town by going up a small pathway near the port. We went up and around Mount Urgull, walking past the ruins of the old British Cemetery and up to the Mota Castle. There are cannons and walls with cut outs to take in the incredible view. The giant Sacred Heart Christ statue stands on top of the castle and can be seen throughout San Sebastian. The hike was a great opportunity to learn a little history and capture some of the best views during our stay.
We loved our stay in San Sebastian and can’t recommend it enough for anyone looking for a beautiful beach town that has amazing food and culture and is also family friendly.